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3032 E John DeereThe John Deere 3032 E Compact Tractor is specifically designed for property owners who want a quality hard working tractor without the hassles of owning one. Excellent service rating making the operational costs low thus improving productivity. The Easy-to-use hydrostatic transmission (HST) increases the tractor’s performance for those tougher to deal with jobs. Next the Optional iMatch™ Quick-Hitch makes it so easy implement hookups saving you time and hassle switching from one job to another.

The extremely powerful diesel engine gives plenty of power when doing heavier loads. The operating area for the driver is easy to use and not over complicated. Comfortable and clean makes it easy on the body when working all day. A great option is the two-spool rear selective control valve which gives superior implement performance when needed.

John Deere 3032 E Compact Tractor Specs.

Engine Manufacturer: : Yanmar 3TNV88
Engine power 97/68/EC rated power (gross), hp (kW): 31.2 (23) @ 2500 rpm, PS
PTO power – Hydrostatic transmission, hp (kW): 25.0 per SAE hp —- 18.6 kW
Rated engine speed: 2500 rpm
Operating range: 950 (2800)
Aspiration: Natural
Cylinders/displacement, cu in. (L): 3 / 97.6 cu in. — 1.6 L
Cylinder liners : Cast-in-block
Bore and stroke, mm (in.): 88×90 mm — 3.4×3.54 in.
Compression ratio: 19:01
Lubrication: Pressurized
Cooling system: Water pump
Air cleaner: Dry-type with safety element
Engine shutoff : Key switch
Engine torque @ rated speed, lb-ft (N/m): 62.7 (85.0) lb-ft
Fuel tank capacity (open-station; cab), U.S. gal. (L): 6.4 gal. —- 24.2 L

Categories : Compact Tractors
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With Ebay and Craigslist, its very easy to find used tractors and equipment for sale at great price.  But that great deal you found can quickly turn into a nightmare of problems leading to the possible loss of the purchase without the return of your cash.  We can blame it on the economy or on what people have to do to survive these days, but its a fact, people are selling these non-titled tractors, gators, implements, or equipment that have liens against them to pay on their home or car.  It is against the law for them to sell property with a lien and according to the paperwork signed at the original purchase when new, if the loan is not paid on, the lien holder can come get the equipment, no matter who has supposedly purchased it.

Many people will argue this, but if you buy something with a lien on it and the lien holder wants the equipment, there is little you can do to stop them from getting it.  Its also very expensive to retain a lawyer to fight to keep what you purchased.  Rather than going that route, lets look at what we can do to prevent ourselves from getting in that situation in the first place.  This is not meant to be a legal how to, its simply guidelines that have been suggested to me from dealers and lawyers.  Each state has different laws, so please check with people in the know in your state.

What I have learned from buying John Deere equipment is that liens are not always filed in the county they were purchased.  JD Finance will file paperwork with the state and that will not always be found with a lien search.  When looking for used equipment, do some research and ask some key questions before you purchase.

  1. Where did you buy the equipment from? Dealer name is very important in lien search!
  2. Was it new when you purchased it?
  3. Do you know about when you purchased it? Helps the dealer look up paperwork.
  4. Did or does this equipment have a lien against it? If its been paid off, can they provide proof?
  5. Write down the VIN, or ask for the VIN number.
  6. What is the sellers first and last name.

Take this information and call the original selling dealer.  If you can get to the general manager or a good salesman, tell then that you are looking to buy this equipment with the VIN and that you were told it was purchased there by (sellers name).  They should be able to look up the equipment to see if there was a lien on this when sold and also look with JD Finance to see if it currently has a lien.  The original dealer also has a responsibility to help collect on the loan when done through JD Finance.

While this will tell you a lot about smaller tractors and equipment.  Larger agricultural equipment might have had a loan through Greenstone or other government subsidised company and you might have to ask your bank to also do a search for you.  If you are going to get a loan on the equipment, you can rely on your bank to do much of this for you.

When you get face to face with the seller, ask a lot of questions.  If the person is selling something because they need cash for their home or to stop an item from being repo’ed, (run) or you could ask them to see the original bill of sale or paperwork showing they do not have a loan on the equipment.  If you buy it, on the bill of sale, have the seller write out that they can legally sell this equipment and it does not have any liens on it.  Have them print their name, address, phone number, date and then sign it.  Keep that with a copy of the cancelled check.  If something happened and it did have a lien, that is your only defense.

What if you are buying equipment from someone who did not buy the machine new?  There might not be a direct way to trace it back to a dealer, or for your dealer to check for liens.  In this case, there is little chance they are with a national finance company  unless it was purchased from a dealer, so a county lien search done at your bank would be your main option.  Running it by your dealer is also a very good idea.

While you will pay more to buy used from a dealer, you also have the protection that a lien cannot be pursued past them.  In Michigan, my understanding is, if a dealer sells something with a lien on it, they are responsible.  Dealers will have to pay the lien holder rather than the lien holder coming after the current owner.

Can we protect our-self in every situation?  Probably not, but a little caution and research can save a lot of headaches later.  If you have anything to ad to this, please comment or contact us.

If you are looking for help in buying or researching used equipment, stop by GreenTractor Talk and ask any questions you have.

John Deere TiresWhen choosing the right tractor for your needs you will also be faced with making a proper tire selection. And when you are a first time tractor buyer it is difficult to know what is best. I know I struggled with this decision when buying my tractors. The tires are classified in the industry as R1, R3, and R4 which designates the construction, sizes, and treads.
The R1 tire is the “agricultural” tread which is the most aggressive in providing excellent traction and is superior in the field and muddy conditions. There are 2 different types of R1 tires, rice paddy found on the Japanese tractors and regular Ag tread found on most farm tractors. Rice paddy tires have deeper lug treads which help “paddle” the unit through very wet muddy conditions. Regular Ag is more of the field tire if choice. It does not have as deep of a lug as the Rice paddy tire and yet it still provides excellent traction. The R1 Ag tire provides a better ride on the fields and roads. R1 tires are also self-cleaning so when operating in muddy conditions the distance between the lugs is large enough that the mud has a difficult time sticking to the tire. R1 tires also are the narrowest of the three.
R3 tires are generally known as “turf” tires and are most commonly found on the golf course or the typical riding mower. Turf tires are grass friendly and tend not to tear the ground up, especially in soft wet conditions. They also have the most ground contact area since they have the shallowest tread depth. R3s do provide the smoothest ride compared with the other two types. R3 tires are also the widest of the three to help provide a large ground contact patch to yield a large traction area to the ground. This tread pattern is not very efficient in a muddy environment. Bear in mind though, one can still do damage to the lawn if the wheel is allowed to spin.
The last is the R4 or “industrial” tire. This tire is commonly used by contractors, landscapers, and now home owners as an all-purpose tractor tire. It has large, shallow, closely spaced lugs that provide traction and is still easy on the lawn. The R4 tread is designed similar to the R1 in that it tends to be self-cleaning. The R4 tire has a very sturdy sidewall construction capable of handling heavier loading. This means that if you have loader work, these tires will handle it unlike the R1 and R3 with softer sidewalls. R4 tires provide great traction and being that they are wider than the R1 tire, they gain the advantage of extra contact with the ground. Due to its large contact area with the ground the R4 tire is easy on the lawn. In 2wd, the R4 tire will be no more damaging to a lawn than a R3.

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Changing Oil in Your John DeereThere seems to be more and more first time owners of sub-compact and compact tractor owners. I too joined this ever growing group back in 2008 when I first purchased my 2520 John Deere with a 72 inch mower deck and 60 inch brush. And then, not to long after the front end loader, a must have if you own one of these machines. A lot of learning now faced me as I started to use my machine. You know, 4wd, differential lock, power steering, 3 point hitch, and not to mention all the cool hydraulics. It does seem like a daunting task but, just take one step at a time, master it, and then move on to the next. And before you know it you’ll know what every lever and foot pedal does.

If you again are like me, then you will be doing your own maintenance on your pride and joy. There is no better way to really know your tractor than to do your own maintenance. And as I already stated, there are some completely new systems on these machines. For example, all new to me is the hydraulics, not so much the hydrostatic drive, but the increased complexity and all the auxiliary options. Then there is the added fact these machines are diesel, which again, is all new to me, and lest we forget, a cooling system and 4wd to learn and take care of. This is just the maintenance to deal with just the tractor alone. Along with it come all the attachments that require their own understanding and maintenance. But, that is completely another topic.

Once you thoroughly learn all about your tractor you are ready to test your knowledge and put it to use. Suddenly you are finding tasks using your new powerful machine to do things you never dreamed of before. And the ones you did know of have become so easy and pleasant they are not enough to feed your desire to spend more time in its seat. Moving mulch, mowing the lawn, grading the lane, and re-contouring the landscape is actually become tasks that you are looking forward to doing. And now suddenly you have noticed that the hour meter is hitting that precious 50 hour mark. Why is the 50 hour mark so important? It is where John Deere recommends that the oils and filters be changed.

As big a company as John Deere is I must give them credit in that they really do a pretty good job with their owner’s manuals. Now mind you, the still make a few mistakes here and there, but on the overall they are pretty good. I know that from tractor to tractor some of the maintenance intervals very. But, my point being that the owner manual won’t let you down. So just follow it step for step and you will make for some happy tractor time. And if that still isn’t good enough, just come and join us at

John Deere PlowNo matter what tractor you have, the initial tire setting for a 12 inch plow is 23 1/2 inches from the center of the draw bar of the tractor to the inside of the right rear tire. 14 inch plow is 25 inches and 16 inch is 27 inches. You can compensate a little if you are off on these measurements by sliding the plow A-Frame on the plow crossbar.

Once you get to the field, lower the plow and make 1 pass, plowing about as deep as you need. Then the second pass, let your right rear tire drop down into the furrow, lower your plow and start the second furrow. Now, get off the tractor and adjust your right leveling crank assembly on your tractor 3 point until the plow is level with the field, left to right. Next adjust your top link until your plow is level with the field front to back.

Now, plow this furrow to the end and on the 3rd furrow fine tune your plow again by repeating the last procedure. All plows should have cross hitch bars that have the right pin down and the left pin upward (standing behind the plow looking forward). This offset is approx 3-4 inches and is built into the plow.

In extra hard plowing conditions, you can loosen you cross hitch bar clamps and rotate it maybe 10-15 degrees to the back and if the plowing is easy then you can rotate the cross hitch bar the opposite way 10-15 degrees. By doing this final adjustment, the plow will do its best job with less strain on the tractor.

When a plow is set correctly, It will follow the centerline of the tractor perfectly without your riding the brakes and it completely turn over the soil.

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