Archive for Compact Tractors

Many people have complained about Floppy Bucket Syndrome (FBS) or Droopy Bucket Syndrome (DBS) but sometimes the two are getting confused.  One of the issues is working on being corrected at John Deere Corporate and the other is part of the regeneration function.  So do you know what one is part of the design?

Floppy Bucket Syndrome is the byproduct of the regen function. This is normally noticed when trying to grade or back-drag with the cutting edge of the bucket.  The bucket will move, almost like there is air in the hydraulics. This can be cured by operation the joystick left or right until the bucket stops moving, then holding it there for a few more seconds. This is not really a warranty issue as there is nothing really wrong. Some dealers have added a “kit” to correct this issue per a DTAC, but its only a restrictor to slow the fluid down as is escapes the cylinders.

Now Droopy Bucket Syndrome is when you move the joystick left to curl the bucket up and it drops first before moving up.  This is absolutely a warranty and safety problem, and this is why JD is working on a new valve for these machines since the “load checks” are apparently not working in the current design.  The DTAC solution number for the bucket fade when you try to feather the curl: DTAC 92992.  Here is a picture of the technical reference.



You can learn more about this issue and how to correct it in the Sub-Compact Tractor section at

Categories : Compact Tractors
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A BIG Thank You to Terry (T-Mo) on Green Tractor Talk for taking the time to put together this 2013 John Deere Calendar.

If you use this, please put a comment on the site letting Terry know his effort is being used by many people!

Here is the link to the PDF  

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Recently on Green Tractor Talk we had a member tip over his fairly new john Deere 1026R while moving around some dirt with his bucket.  The gentleman was nice enough to completely share this event with us, including pictures.  As you can imagine, this thread went on for some time and there were many, many philosophies on why he tipped his tractor.  Removing our-self from that situation, it got me thinking about the debate of iron bolted on the rims or liquid inside the tires for ballast.  I always stood on the iron side as that is the golden rule in today’s agriculture and I grew up watching Calcium Chloride leaks and watching what it does to tractor rims.  But, in reality, with today’s liquids, what really matters is that you have one or the other.  Yes, I said it, just go out and get one or the other.  But also remember, adding weight to the rear tires does little to nothing of removing weight from your front axle.  You MUST use a ballast box or use some sort of weight hooked on the three point hitch!

Let have a little fun and look at some pictures.

The gentleman with the 1026R was using a ballast box full of large stones AND had loaded his tires with rim-guard liquid.  Things can still go wrong when you are doing everything right, so be safe!


Here is a list of what he states he did right and wrong:

Things I did wrong:

1.  I raised my bucket about 3′ high while dumping the small load and that was just enough to start the roll.

2.  I failed to foresee and avoid the situation prior to attempting the maneuver.

3.  I failed to drop the bucket as the roll over began.
Things I did right:

1.  I had the ROPS up and my seat belt on.

2.  I was driving extremely slow across the bluff with full ballast and the bucket low (no loss of stability at that point).

3.  I had lowered the ballast box until is was just 6″ above the grass.

4.  I was in 4 wheel drive, low range with no more than 2,000 RPMs.

5.  I was stopped at the moment of roll over.

6.  I stayed inside the safety zone and kept my arms inside as well during the roll over event.
Things the tractor did wrong:

1.  It rolled over very quickly leaving little time to react to even drop the bucket.

2.  It dumped a couple of the rocks out of the ballast box and they rolled down the hill.

3.  The battery became slightly dislodged.
Things the tractor did right:

1.  It protected me (I didn’t even have a bruise).

2.  It killed the engine.

3.  It stopped as soon as it was on its side – no other motion in any direction.

4.  It only leaked perhaps 8 oz of hydraulic fluid, no diesel fuel and no oil.

5.  It restarted a few hours later and now runs fine.

How many people out there wear their seat-belt each time they are on the tractor?  You need to.  Use these lessons and learn from them.  No one was hurt here, but it could have been just the opposite if his seat belt was not used.

Think about it, no matter what you use, liquid or iron, it does not matter.  Each have their down side and there is no right answer.  Pick one and use a ballast box.

Be safe!

With Ebay and Craigslist, its very easy to find used tractors and equipment for sale at great price.  But that great deal you found can quickly turn into a nightmare of problems leading to the possible loss of the purchase without the return of your cash.  We can blame it on the economy or on what people have to do to survive these days, but its a fact, people are selling these non-titled tractors, gators, implements, or equipment that have liens against them to pay on their home or car.  It is against the law for them to sell property with a lien and according to the paperwork signed at the original purchase when new, if the loan is not paid on, the lien holder can come get the equipment, no matter who has supposedly purchased it.

Many people will argue this, but if you buy something with a lien on it and the lien holder wants the equipment, there is little you can do to stop them from getting it.  Its also very expensive to retain a lawyer to fight to keep what you purchased.  Rather than going that route, lets look at what we can do to prevent ourselves from getting in that situation in the first place.  This is not meant to be a legal how to, its simply guidelines that have been suggested to me from dealers and lawyers.  Each state has different laws, so please check with people in the know in your state.

What I have learned from buying John Deere equipment is that liens are not always filed in the county they were purchased.  JD Finance will file paperwork with the state and that will not always be found with a lien search.  When looking for used equipment, do some research and ask some key questions before you purchase.

  1. Where did you buy the equipment from? Dealer name is very important in lien search!
  2. Was it new when you purchased it?
  3. Do you know about when you purchased it? Helps the dealer look up paperwork.
  4. Did or does this equipment have a lien against it? If its been paid off, can they provide proof?
  5. Write down the VIN, or ask for the VIN number.
  6. What is the sellers first and last name.

Take this information and call the original selling dealer.  If you can get to the general manager or a good salesman, tell then that you are looking to buy this equipment with the VIN and that you were told it was purchased there by (sellers name).  They should be able to look up the equipment to see if there was a lien on this when sold and also look with JD Finance to see if it currently has a lien.  The original dealer also has a responsibility to help collect on the loan when done through JD Finance.

While this will tell you a lot about smaller tractors and equipment.  Larger agricultural equipment might have had a loan through Greenstone or other government subsidised company and you might have to ask your bank to also do a search for you.  If you are going to get a loan on the equipment, you can rely on your bank to do much of this for you.

When you get face to face with the seller, ask a lot of questions.  If the person is selling something because they need cash for their home or to stop an item from being repo’ed, (run) or you could ask them to see the original bill of sale or paperwork showing they do not have a loan on the equipment.  If you buy it, on the bill of sale, have the seller write out that they can legally sell this equipment and it does not have any liens on it.  Have them print their name, address, phone number, date and then sign it.  Keep that with a copy of the cancelled check.  If something happened and it did have a lien, that is your only defense.

What if you are buying equipment from someone who did not buy the machine new?  There might not be a direct way to trace it back to a dealer, or for your dealer to check for liens.  In this case, there is little chance they are with a national finance company  unless it was purchased from a dealer, so a county lien search done at your bank would be your main option.  Running it by your dealer is also a very good idea.

While you will pay more to buy used from a dealer, you also have the protection that a lien cannot be pursued past them.  In Michigan, my understanding is, if a dealer sells something with a lien on it, they are responsible.  Dealers will have to pay the lien holder rather than the lien holder coming after the current owner.

Can we protect our-self in every situation?  Probably not, but a little caution and research can save a lot of headaches later.  If you have anything to ad to this, please comment or contact us.

If you are looking for help in buying or researching used equipment, stop by GreenTractor Talk and ask any questions you have.

The new 1 series tractors from John Deere have taken the sub compact tractor market by storm. These machines are incredibly capable of many tasks and chores that many large suburbia home owners will have on their to-do list. In fact, once the new owner finds out how serious his new 1 series really is, he’ll be looking for more to do with it.

As popular as the new 1023E and 1026R have become, they do have some minor issues. As John Deere sells so many of these tractors, most, if not all issues have been corrected under warranty and on the assembly line. One of these issues happens to be a floppy hood. The original hood design has no side to side reinforcement and can flop around when open or trying to close it. The problem is more annoying than anything else. Once the hood is closed, there is no problem and one would never know there was an issue. Since the hood is mainly comprised of plastic, it would require a whole new design to strengthen and fix the issue. Instead, the smart engineers at John Deere came up with a clever solution. To my knowledge, they are also including this new part on the assembly line in Augusta GA. The solution is a metal reinforcement bar that spans across the hood and connects to both hinges. John Deere part number LVU26049 looks like this installed.

#2 in this diagram

If your dealer doesn’t know of this new part, give them John Deere solution number 90947.

Another issue with the new 1 series hood is the hood latch itself. Some owners are having problems with the hood not latching closed. Others have a rattling hood which is traced back to the hood not fully closed when it seems as though it is. When the hood isn’t fully closed, the loose fit allows the hood to vibrate on both sides of the radiator screen. Unfortunately there is no adjustment available to correct the poor fitting latch.

Once again the engineers at John Deere have come to the rescue and solved this problem with a newly designed part. The new hood latch striker part number is LVA18316. Installation couldn’t be any easier with only two bolts. It should be available at your purchasing dealer at no charge for the part or installation under a warranty claim.

Once these new parts are installed on your new 1026R or 1023E, the floppy, loose fitting, and noisy hood issues are a thing of the past.