Archive for John Deere Technical
There seems to be more and more first time owners of sub-compact and compact tractor owners. I too joined this ever growing group back in 2008 when I first purchased my 2520 John Deere with a 72 inch mower deck and 60 inch brush. And then, not to long after the front end loader, a must have if you own one of these machines. A lot of learning now faced me as I started to use my machine. You know, 4wd, differential lock, power steering, 3 point hitch, and not to mention all the cool hydraulics. It does seem like a daunting task but, just take one step at a time, master it, and then move on to the next. And before you know it you’ll know what every lever and foot pedal does.
If you again are like me, then you will be doing your own maintenance on your pride and joy. There is no better way to really know your tractor than to do your own maintenance. And as I already stated, there are some completely new systems on these machines. For example, all new to me is the hydraulics, not so much the hydrostatic drive, but the increased complexity and all the auxiliary options. Then there is the added fact these machines are diesel, which again, is all new to me, and lest we forget, a cooling system and 4wd to learn and take care of. This is just the maintenance to deal with just the tractor alone. Along with it come all the attachments that require their own understanding and maintenance. But, that is completely another topic.
Once you thoroughly learn all about your tractor you are ready to test your knowledge and put it to use. Suddenly you are finding tasks using your new powerful machine to do things you never dreamed of before. And the ones you did know of have become so easy and pleasant they are not enough to feed your desire to spend more time in its seat. Moving mulch, mowing the lawn, grading the lane, and re-contouring the landscape is actually become tasks that you are looking forward to doing. And now suddenly you have noticed that the hour meter is hitting that precious 50 hour mark. Why is the 50 hour mark so important? It is where John Deere recommends that the oils and filters be changed.
As big a company as John Deere is I must give them credit in that they really do a pretty good job with their owner’s manuals. Now mind you, the still make a few mistakes here and there, but on the overall they are pretty good. I know that from tractor to tractor some of the maintenance intervals very. But, my point being that the owner manual won’t let you down. So just follow it step for step and you will make for some happy tractor time. And if that still isn’t good enough, just come and join us at GreenTractorTalk.com.
No matter what tractor you have, the initial tire setting for a 12 inch plow is 23 1/2 inches from the center of the draw bar of the tractor to the inside of the right rear tire. 14 inch plow is 25 inches and 16 inch is 27 inches. You can compensate a little if you are off on these measurements by sliding the plow A-Frame on the plow crossbar.
Once you get to the field, lower the plow and make 1 pass, plowing about as deep as you need. Then the second pass, let your right rear tire drop down into the furrow, lower your plow and start the second furrow. Now, get off the tractor and adjust your right leveling crank assembly on your tractor 3 point until the plow is level with the field, left to right. Next adjust your top link until your plow is level with the field front to back.
Now, plow this furrow to the end and on the 3rd furrow fine tune your plow again by repeating the last procedure. All plows should have cross hitch bars that have the right pin down and the left pin upward (standing behind the plow looking forward). This offset is approx 3-4 inches and is built into the plow.
In extra hard plowing conditions, you can loosen you cross hitch bar clamps and rotate it maybe 10-15 degrees to the back and if the plowing is easy then you can rotate the cross hitch bar the opposite way 10-15 degrees. By doing this final adjustment, the plow will do its best job with less strain on the tractor.
When a plow is set correctly, It will follow the centerline of the tractor perfectly without your riding the brakes and it completely turn over the soil.
It seems a few owners haven’t gotten their new 1 series tractors equipped with either the 54 or 60D mower setup correctly. This will explain how to do it yourself for the best possible mower performance! Most if not all of this information can be found in the John Deere Owner’s Manuals for the mower and the tractor. The procedure is the same for the 54″ and 60″ decks, mechanical or independent lift. There is one additional step for mechanical lift equipped tractors. More on that later…
First you’re going to need a few tools. A 1 1/8″ wrench, a tape measure or better yet the JD mower leveling gauge p/n AM130907. The tractor needs to be parked on a smooth and level surface.
-This step is for mechanical lift equipped tractors only- To adjust MMM rockshaft lift strap (located between 3PH rockshaft and MMM rockshaft behind left rear wheel) you remove the mower and remove the hair pin clips and pins (D) to disconnect the lift links (E) from both lift arms. Raise the 3PH fully. Rotate mower cut height knob to lock position. Remove left rear wheel. (You might be able to skip this if you can reach the 3 bolts on the lifting strap.) Loosen the three bolts on the lift strap. Rotate mid mount rockshaft (B) forward until there is a small gap (A) between the the height cam (C) and mid mount rockshaft (B). Move lift strap forward to the end of travel slot and tighten the three bolts. (I’d use 1/16″ to 1/8″ for a goal for this gap.) Reinstall left rear wheel and mower.
First you want to adjust the side lift links (E) for maximum lift. To do this you’ll want to start the tractor and raise the mower all the way. Rotate the mower height adjustment knob to the lock position. Now look at the mower height cam (C) above the left rear mower latch. It’s just behind the left rear tire. You want to see a gap at “A”. I’ve found that a gap of about 1/8″ is perfect.
To get this gap set right you first need to unlock all anti-scalp wheels, turn the mower height adjustment knob to the “install” position, and then lower the deck to the ground. Then remove the hair pin clips and pins (D) and adjust both links (E) up equally. Now you need to raise the mower fully and check for the gap (A) between the height cam (C) and the rock shaft arm (B). Repeat this process until you get close to 1/8″.
Here is the gap on my tractor.
The next picture shows the mower resting on the height cam “lock” position.
Now we are going to adjust side to side level. Set your mower height adjustment knob to your desired mowing height and lower your mower. Measure your blade height and adjust the same side links to achieve level within 1/8″ to 1/4″. I was able to achieve the same measurement on both sides. I usually mow at 3″ and marked the scale accordingly.
After you’ve set level side to side, recheck your maximum height setting. Here is my tractor at full travel, mower resting on the lock position, and install position.
To adjust front to rear level we’ll need your mower at your desired mowing height. Measure a blade from the front and at the rear. It doesn’t matter which blade. The optimal setting is 1/8″ to 1/4″ front lower than the rear. This reduces friction on the rear of the blades and make the front of the blade do all of the cutting and discharging. The front draft arms will adjust front to rear leveling. First lower the deck to the install position and loosen the rear draft arm nuts with the 1 1/8″ wrench. (The nuts closest to the mower.) It may help to drive the tractor off of the mower just to loosen the rear nuts. Raise the mower back to the desired mowing height. Tighten the front nuts the same amount (it helps to count flats) to raise the front of the deck. Loosening lowers the front of the deck. Double check your front to rear level once you got the draft arm adjustment nuts tight.
The Auto-Connect carrier bearing needs to be adjusted for easy connection as well. If you remove the mower it will be easier. Lower the mower/mower lift arms all the way to the install position. There is an adjustment bolt under the bearing to adjust for between perpendicular to the ground to leaning ever so slightly forward. I found this makes for the best connection.
Now it’s time to go mow your yard and enjoy your tractor!
John Deere Parts is a comprehensive parts lookup and database covering all John Deere tractors, equipment and implements going back to 1975. This system is the same internet site used at the parts counter at the dealerships. The system allows you to look up parts by model numbers, part numbers or partial part numbers. It is found on John Deere’s website under parts at JDParts .
In order to use JDParts you are required to signup using a username and password. This is to ensure your privacy and security of your orders and personal information. After registering and you have located your item, just add it to the “Shopping Cart”. Now you can get a price, see inventory, or even order it directly through your specified dealership for easy pickup. You may change your designated dealership at any time should it be required or needed. For example, you can change to another local dealer to view their inventory on a specific item and then change back to your regular dealer. You can also find what equipment a part is used on as a part can cross over several models. Once you are approved to use the system it is highly recommended to take the time to get comfortable getting around in the system as there is a huge amount of information to sift through. The “Help” section contains all of the detailed information on using JDParts such as, Frequently Asked Questions, Learn to use JDParts, Finding Parts, Using the Shopping Cart and Ordering Parts, Doing Business with your Dealer, and Updating your Profile.
JDParts is not just a part locator; it includes maintenance items such as oils, filters, coolant, greases, batteries and home maintenance kits. To which you can also order through the JDParts system. The system also contains some equipment accessories and data sheets of chemicals, oils, and greases.
This information is most easily obtained by the “Key Word” search function. Probably the most useful and powerful feature of the system is it displays the parts list breakdown of every machine subassembly along with any available options. But, the big bonus is the detailed exploded diagrams. You can locate and see exactly how the part fits into the assembly to aid you in maintenance and repair of your equipment.
Now let’s discuss what the system can not do. You cannot source or price what John Deere defines as “Whole Goods” through this parts system since these are not parts, but rather whole options or accessories like a Mid Mount Mower or Front End Loader for example. These items will have to be priced and sourced through the sales department at a local or online dealer. You may however obtain a list price of a “Whole Goods” item through the “Build Your Own” function in another section of the John Deere website. You also can not buy directly from the website; all sales are completed through an authorized dealership specified by you.
I completed the initial 50 hour service on my 1026R today and wanted to share some notes with you guys.
-Flat tip screwdriver
-10mm socket and wrench (engine side panel removal-optional)
-6mm Allen wrench
-oil filter pliers
-transmission oil filter p/n LVA16054
-4 Gallons of low viscosity Hy-Gard (J20D) fluid
-a LARGE drain pan capable of at least 4 gallons. Bigger if you have it.
-3/4″ socket for removing wheel
-floor jack and jack stand
I also changed the engine oil so you’ll see the 17mm wrench and oil filter p/n M806418
The 50 hour initial servicing of the trans is pretty straight forward. You need to remove the left rear tire.
Drain the trans by removing the drain plug with the 13mm wrench. Lower the mower lift arms to get more room to access the trans filter. My filter was TIGHT. I needed the filter pliers to loosen it. I partially filled the new filter and lubricated the gasket prior to installing it. Next the oil pump suction screen need to be removed. This is very important. The suction screen is at the bottom rear of the trans. Remove the suction hose clamps and remove the hose. This is what you’ll see.
Remove the Allen bolt and pull the screen assembly out of the trans. Here’s what mine looked like.
Don’t forget to clean the magnet inside the screen!
Remember how much oil is in the transmission?
A couple of tips.- Remove the dipstick (engine or trans) during draining or filling to let it breathe and prevent surging or bubbling in your funnel or drain pan. I purchased a 5 gallon bucket of low-vis Hy-Gard as it was cheaper and I have some left over. Lower your 3PH for a more complete oil change. Use a jack stand- ’nuff said. Engine oil change is so straight forward there’s nothing to really note. Do not overfill. It’s much easier to add than remove a little oil. The trans level will come up all of a sudden, so sneak up on it. I used this opportunity to grease all of the zerks for a complete service. The picture of the trans suction screen says it all. Don’t skip this important service.