John Deere Parts is a comprehensive parts lookup and database covering all John Deere tractors, equipment and implements going back to 1975. This system is the same internet site used at the parts counter at the dealerships. The system allows you to look up parts by model numbers, part numbers or partial part numbers. It is found on John Deere’s website under parts at JDParts .
In order to use JDParts you are required to signup using a username and password. This is to ensure your privacy and security of your orders and personal information. After registering and you have located your item, just add it to the “Shopping Cart”. Now you can get a price, see inventory, or even order it directly through your specified dealership for easy pickup. You may change your designated dealership at any time should it be required or needed. For example, you can change to another local dealer to view their inventory on a specific item and then change back to your regular dealer. You can also find what equipment a part is used on as a part can cross over several models. Once you are approved to use the system it is highly recommended to take the time to get comfortable getting around in the system as there is a huge amount of information to sift through. The “Help” section contains all of the detailed information on using JDParts such as, Frequently Asked Questions, Learn to use JDParts, Finding Parts, Using the Shopping Cart and Ordering Parts, Doing Business with your Dealer, and Updating your Profile.
JDParts is not just a part locator; it includes maintenance items such as oils, filters, coolant, greases, batteries and home maintenance kits. To which you can also order through the JDParts system. The system also contains some equipment accessories and data sheets of chemicals, oils, and greases.
This information is most easily obtained by the “Key Word” search function. Probably the most useful and powerful feature of the system is it displays the parts list breakdown of every machine subassembly along with any available options. But, the big bonus is the detailed exploded diagrams. You can locate and see exactly how the part fits into the assembly to aid you in maintenance and repair of your equipment.
Now let’s discuss what the system can not do. You cannot source or price what John Deere defines as “Whole Goods” through this parts system since these are not parts, but rather whole options or accessories like a Mid Mount Mower or Front End Loader for example. These items will have to be priced and sourced through the sales department at a local or online dealer. You may however obtain a list price of a “Whole Goods” item through the “Build Your Own” function in another section of the John Deere website. You also can not buy directly from the website; all sales are completed through an authorized dealership specified by you.
I completed the initial 50 hour service on my 1026R today and wanted to share some notes with you guys.
-Flat tip screwdriver
-10mm socket and wrench (engine side panel removal-optional)
-6mm Allen wrench
-oil filter pliers
-transmission oil filter p/n LVA16054
-4 Gallons of low viscosity Hy-Gard (J20D) fluid
-a LARGE drain pan capable of at least 4 gallons. Bigger if you have it.
-3/4″ socket for removing wheel
-floor jack and jack stand
I also changed the engine oil so you’ll see the 17mm wrench and oil filter p/n M806418
The 50 hour initial servicing of the trans is pretty straight forward. You need to remove the left rear tire.
Drain the trans by removing the drain plug with the 13mm wrench. Lower the mower lift arms to get more room to access the trans filter. My filter was TIGHT. I needed the filter pliers to loosen it. I partially filled the new filter and lubricated the gasket prior to installing it. Next the oil pump suction screen need to be removed. This is very important. The suction screen is at the bottom rear of the trans. Remove the suction hose clamps and remove the hose. This is what you’ll see.
Remove the Allen bolt and pull the screen assembly out of the trans. Here’s what mine looked like.
Don’t forget to clean the magnet inside the screen!
Remember how much oil is in the transmission?
A couple of tips.- Remove the dipstick (engine or trans) during draining or filling to let it breathe and prevent surging or bubbling in your funnel or drain pan. I purchased a 5 gallon bucket of low-vis Hy-Gard as it was cheaper and I have some left over. Lower your 3PH for a more complete oil change. Use a jack stand- ’nuff said. Engine oil change is so straight forward there’s nothing to really note. Do not overfill. It’s much easier to add than remove a little oil. The trans level will come up all of a sudden, so sneak up on it. I used this opportunity to grease all of the zerks for a complete service. The picture of the trans suction screen says it all. Don’t skip this important service.
Tractor 3pt Hitch Draft Control Types
First we must determine the meaning of the word draft.
Draft = Depth
Draft = Pulling force
For the purpose of this article it is important to note that a tractors draft control is NOT a depth control system. It is a LOAD control system controlling the load placed on the tractor by an implement and it is set by the operator by the movement of the 3pt hitch hydraulic rockshaft control valve or thru mechanical or electrical movement of the rockshaft valve. Now we can see that this lever also controls/limits the depth an implement may go into the ground but this control of depth is affecting the vertical load placed on the rear of the tractor. As the depth of an implement increases so does the draft (pulling/vertical load) increase until horsepower or traction has reached its limit and the tractor stalls or spins.
For our John Deere tractors they use three types of draft control systems:
Select Control Type: This is the most basic system that John Deere uses to control the 3pt hitch system. This type uses a rockshaft control lever that has an up, down and neutral position. Implement positioning is controlled by how quickly an operator can return the lever to the neutral position. You push the rockshaft control lever forward to lower and back to raise an implement. The middle position is neutral and on newer tractors the control lever will return to neutral automatically as soon as the operator releases the control lever from up or down positions while some older tractors the operator had to return the lever to neutral manually. With this basic system an operator may get the implement in the same position 1 out of 100 times. This type is neither precise nor accurate.
Position Control Type: This type of control system involves a rockshaft control lever that has a full up and full down position as well as the ability of stopping at any point in-between. This JD type usually uses a scaled strip next to the control lever with a moveable stop so an operator may raise and lower the implement to the predetermined “stop” position. If you were looking to have your plow, box blade or mid-mount mower raise and lower by the 3pt hitch to the same position this would be the control type you would want to select. It should be mentioned that the precision and accuracy of the position control is not mentioned and this is due to lack of data but the precision appears to be relatively high.
Load Sensing Control Type: Load-sensing types are normally used in conjunction with the position control type and uses mechanical or electrical sensors to control the positioning of the 3pt arms as load forces increase or decrease. Load-sensing is found on John Deere tractors that are capable of larger ground engaging equipment, as the load-sensing was originally designed for plowing implements. When used with position control the load sensing controls will raise the 3pt arms when the draft increases and lowers them back to the position control set stop point when the load decreases.
Some historical types of load sensing used the top link of the 3pt hitch as the control point. The top link had a coil/leaf/torsion spring that would attach mechanically to the rockshaft control valve and allow for raising or lowering of the 3pt arms based on the load conditions placed on the top link. This mechanical-hydraulic system was very popular. Another variation of this same system mechanically attached to the lower arms verses the top link. This change was more prevalent when farmers were switching from single plows to multi-furrow plow setups. Still there were other older systems that monitored rear axle torque to raise and lower the 3pt arms and ones that used a separate wheel system attached mechanically to the rockshaft control valve to control the 3pt arms.
Newer load-sense control types use electro-hydraulic systems to control the movement of the 3pt arms. One type of the electro-mechanical systems uses electrical sensors the are inside the rockshaft cover or outside and connected to a mechanical lever that attaches to the lower 3pt arms and the control of the rockshaft control valve can be mechanically controlled or with electronic solenoids. Another electrical system uses all electronics to monitor the load on the tractor and move the 3pt arms. It does this with electrical sensors on the 3pt arms or rockshaft and sensors that monitor the speed of the tractor (with the aid of radar, GPS, or axle speed sensors) and either sensor input can cause the movement of the 3pt arms. The electronic systems are all controlled with the aid of an ECU that can monitor all the inputs and control the 3pt arms with no operator input once the system is set and activated.
What is “Regen” or the “Regenerative” function of a FEL Valve? Read it here…
Regen is a “feature” of most modern FEL (Front End Loader) valves, it’s on the Dump (joystick far right) circuit, and is also referred to as “Fast Dump”. The reason it is nice to have is that without it, the weight of a filled bucket can actually “pull” the bucket down faster than the fluid can enter the other side of the cylinder, this will create a air pocket and give the bucket a “floppy” feeling until the joystick is held in the dump mode a few seconds to refill the cylinder pushing the air past the seals. So we add “regen” or “regenerative” function to the valve.
Regen solves this problem by actually filling both sides of the cylinder at the same time with hydraulic fluid. But how will that work you might ask? Well, because there is more volume on the side of the cylinder that extends it since the rod is taking up space in the other side, it “overpowers” the rod side and lets the cylinder extend-thereby dumping the bucket. So since now both sides of the cylinder are “pressurized”, the air pocket cannot develop, eliminating the “floppy” bucket syndrome. One other added bonus is that the bucket actually dumps faster due to the higher flow rate required to do all this, that’s why it’s referred to as “fast dump” sometimes.
So, now you may be asking “This is cool and all that, but why do I need to know about it?” The answer to that is simple, if you ever try to run a snow plow with two SA (single acting) cylinders, or a cylinder that drives a chute rotator on a snowblower you will soon find out that they won’t work if you push the joystick to far right into the regen mode. The plow won’t work because since both lines are pressurized-both cylinders will be trying to extend at the same time binding everything up. The rotator won’t work because there is no weight pushing the cylinder closed like there is on the loader.
On most, if not all John Deere tractors there is a “lockout” the limits how far the joystick travels to the right to keep it out of the regen mode.
I took delivery on mine yesterday and had a chance to mow with it and spend 3 hrs or so working with the FEL and Backhoe. This brief description is in comparison to mowing with an X724, which I will probably sell.
Comparing and contrasting the X724 and 1026R is like comparing a small nimble SUV or Jeep to a large SUV. I can’t help but draw this conclusion when contrasting them.
A Toyota analogy: When I had my 4Runner for a few years, we decided that we might want to upgrade to a Sequoia. The 4Runner is very nimble, quick-handing, but somewhat small. We test drove the Sequoia and WOW what a difference! The larger SUV was like a lumbering behemoth in comparison. Turns were slower and took more effort. Stopping wasn’t nearly as quick. Body roll was pronounced and the front dipped a lot during heavy braking. It took a good bit longer to stop. The ride was a lot rougher. However, it felt much more solid. We didn’t really like the Sequoia at all. It lost many of the qualities we liked about the 4Runner.
Now that I’ve had a few hours on the 1026R, I can draw a similar comparison to the X724 for grass cutting. Let me just start out by saying that if you just want to cut grass, BY ALL MEANS get the X700 series with AWS (preferably diesel with the deluxe seat) and forget the 1-series – especially if you have obstacles or any slopes. The X700 series with AWS are a grass cutter’s dream. They are quick, incredibly nimble, stable, with a low center of gravity, and zip through the thickest zoyzia grass, bagging or not. Cutting my grass on my X724 is actually a lot of fun because my grass area is fairly small with lots of obstacles. When I’m done, I feel like I just ran a road course – and the yard looks great.
Compared to the 1026R – what a difference! Not that the 1-series is bad, it’s obviously a tractor first which can “also cut grass” because it has a MMM attached. I’d never call it a “lawn mower” or “garden tractor.” It’s significantly heavier. Although the 1-series can turn really sharply, they’re harder to turn because steering effort is higher and they require more wheel turns. You must take care not to turn to quickly or you’ll scuff the grass (yes, with turf tires). The lack of AWS makes a big difference when cutting in and around obstacles. The firm ride quality isn’t nearly as good, but the deluxe seat certainly helps. I’m sure part of it is a learning process for me because I’m used to the AWS, but I have to think a bit more when going around obstacles on the 1026R. When/if I sell the X724, it will take me a good bit longer to cut with the 1026R than the X724 because of the weight and lack of AWS. Quick sudden turns at decent speed are no problem for the X724, but not so good on the 1026R. This next thing may be a setup issue with mine: when I cut grass in high range, if I quickly release the forward pedal (even at slow speed), it acts like I hit reverse, so the reverse detector kicks in and shuts off the PTO and engine, then scrolls a message across the dash to the effect of “engage LO” or something (I’ll clarify next time I see it). Going to get that checked. In low range, this doesn’t happen. Low isn’t quite fast enough for efficient grass cutting.
On the other hand, if you have lots of open areas to cut with little or no obstacles, the 1-series might be your ticket. If you need the attachment capability, it certainly is better. I’m not dissing on the 1-series. Sitting side-by-side, the look fairly similar in size. The 1 sits a bit taller – especially the seat. But it’s kinda hard to find an X700 series tractor loader backhoe, so I’ll keep the 1026R.
footnote: Upgrading from the LX280 (nice machine) to the X724 was amazing. The LX280 was nice, but it would beat you up pretty badly on a rough lawn. The X724 rides like a caddy in comparison. Moving up to the 1-series is like moving from a nimble sedan to a truck.
I have a 3-pt hitch on the X724 and have spent a few hours working my driveway with a box scraper. The 1026R with FEL is much nicer to work with for general dirt moving – my neck appreciates not looking backwards half the time. When I get the 3-pt hitch parts, I’ll be able to appreciate a real 3-pt hitch position control.
I’ll take some photos after it cools off a bit outside.